Surfing's Greatest Misadventures
From horrific shark encounters to strange wanderings in exotic lands, this collection of well-written surf tales is loads of fun and sometimes a bit scary. The stories are short blasts of adventure and description that show sometimes even the most ill-fated missions make for stories worth telling. In fact, it seems that the most painful stories are the most worthy of reading. One story in this book tells of the earliest days of Trestles when a handful of surfers bobbed in the lineup, dodging bullets from the military. It is at once tragic and fun. With the advance of concrete and wire that is currently threatening Trestles, stories like this are priceless. Bethany Hamilton's horrifying brush with death allows the reader to experience the tragedy of fate and triumph of the spirit through a wonderfully written piece by one of my favorite surf writers.