Surfing's Not All Good? (Pterygium among other Strange Things)
Ever heard of a pyerygium? If not, consider yourself stoked. Sounds like some creature that Odysseus fought just after the Cyclops. Or maybe that was Perseus. Anyway, a pterygium is a strange cancer-like, bloody red growth that forms over the white area of the eye. Gnarly, huh? These nasty little things are a direct effect of sun glare and salt on ye olde eyeballs and they mainly affect surfers and fishermen (anyone who frequents the sun, really). Sadly, I have had one pterygium in each eye since I was 20 years old and even had several surgeries, but last year, I finally encoutered a doctor who is performing a brand new procedure that literally changed my life. My eye is smooth and white and pterygium free. Like an idiot, I still haven't quit surfing every day, but now I take precautions like wearing Sea Specs to stop the pterygium from coming back.
There are other problems surfers can encounter like extosis (surfer's ear) as well as knee and back injuries; however, statstics support that other sports such as soccer and football are far more likely to mess you up worse. Sure we have sunburn, jellyfish, and sharks; but the sun and ocean are also healing sources for the body and soul. So don't quit surfing, just keep an eye on your body and make sure to take care of any strange growths or red patches that look freaky. After all, there are very few ailments that ole Dr. Stoke can't cure.


Comments
If you are going to surf until a late age you have to do some kind of cross training like yoga or a martial art, also watch your ears and use the sunblock.