Surfing: The Irony and Happiness of it All

International Surfing Day is upon us and...it's flat. Is that some kind of ironic slap in the face or Mother Nature's response to nonsensical coprorate pandering. No matter how you slice it, an excuse to go surfing is a good thing. And your neck of the woods might not be flat.

Maybe you are waxing up right now in New York. Maybe you're dreaming of waking up in Hawaii, or checking the buoys for tomorrow's session in Bali. Oooh! You Aussies have no idea how lucky you are to live Down Under. That's the crazy thing; surfers sometimes have no idea how lucky they are just to be surfers. Heck, I owe my life to surfing. I wouldn't have traveled to all the interesting places and met all the awesome folks around the world (or my wife for that matter). Every session has made up my collective self and who I am as a human.

Maybe there is some real reason for International Surfing Day. It's the day when guys and girls who take surfing for granted, think about about how lucky they are...just to be surfers. Go pick up some trash at your local beach. Give your shaper a hug. Join the Surfrider Foundation. Think about what life would be like without surfing, and then most of all go surfing. Ride every wave with a smile and dig life for the happiness it brings.