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Jay's Surfing / Bodyboarding Blog

By Jay DiMartino, About.com Guide to Surfing / Bodyboarding since 2003

Surf Injuries and Crowd Control

Sunday July 6, 2008
Before getting into today's writing, let's all hope and pray that the young boy who was injured surfing off Oregon today recovers quickly. It gets you thinking about the strange things that can happen while surfing. Some are horrible like this teen's plight (who is now undergoing surgery to re-attach his arm).

But other strange things can happen while surfing. In fact, surfing injuries have increased 50% over the last decade. However, I have a bad feeling that has more to do with an insane explosion in the surfing populous than anything else. Crowds? Uhg! That thought is wretched. Sure, I understand that surf lessons (like the ones here on this site) that help new surfers learn more quickly are leading to more people in the lineup, but I also believe that most of these folks would have learned anyway (and probably would have gotten in more danger without some skills) and the growth of surf schools has provided surfers some surf-related career options.

It's not the 50's anymore. Surfing went mainstream a loooong time ago. Besides, most kids and adults attending camps and taking lessons probably will never challnge you for a wave at your local spot or bump you off a flight to Hawaii. The bottom line is that the ocean is crowded and getting smaller everyday. Will surfing ever become uncool again and leave its practice to its truest disciples? Who knows? But somewhere, a wave is breaking over a reef that has never been ridden or wrapping into a bay with nary a footprint on the beach. That ideal of the perfect unridden wave is what drives the spirit of surfing itself.

Comments

July 21, 2008 at 11:40 am
(1) Danny says:

This is pretty much why I do not hit the waves on the weekends during the summer anymore. Even the exclusive breaks that were harder for the weekenders to walk to with their rolling cooler of potato salad are getting crowded. Catching a wave while respecting your fellow surfer has become more of an obstical course… you also have to watch out for the dude on the foam board from Reno.

August 1, 2008 at 7:42 pm
(2) Damo says:

You know, sometimes I can’t help think we as individuals are half to blame for this issue. I live on Australia’s Gold Coast, the beach is at the end of my street. On any given day, Snapper Rocks will have over 50 people surfing it, while the perfectly servicable beachies at the end of my street go unridden. 2 longer rides in 2 hours, or 100 shorter rides over the same time I ask you. I know what I’d prefer. Further, once I paddle out and catch just 1 wave, all of a sudden I will be surrounded by a flock of surfing “sheep”. Its as if a new break had just been found. C’mon surfers. If you really love surfing, remember the spirit of exploration where you spend at least some time on the beach looking for a wave. Don’t just flock to the closest bunch of surfers in the water, assuming its the best spot in the water! Its sheepish, its boring, its annoying!

August 31, 2008 at 10:23 pm
(3) name says:

Hi!,

September 1, 2008 at 2:14 am
(4) name says:

Good day!,

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