An Ode to Pro Surfing
I might as well give in. I have always maintained even as a competing surfer and contest judge that surf contests are lame... and the surfer who is having the most fun wins... and there is no way to impress a qualitative measurement on one wave or surfer over another. That said, I have to admit I love pro surfing. I love the webcasts and contests results and the magazine articles and rooting for my favorites. I love watching surfers with seemingly super-natural abilities shredding exotic waves with the weight of impending points and cash on their backs. Are these people better than us? Well, no, in the case that they are riddled with all the same issues, obsessions, frailties and anxieties that make us all human (although we never see these red flags in ads or magazine articles) but heck NO in the fact that these guys and gals can throw a tail waft or 360 stale-fish air or pull into a throttling barrel at will, on cue and in front of the whole surf world (what essentially is a losing gamble for most but often ends in victory for these guys). And if you have ever surfed Pipe of Sunset or Chopes, you know that pro surfers are earning their money, especially on those less than perfect wind-blown mornings when the sea has yet to calm, the swell is on the rise, and photogs and spectators are still sleeping. That's going for it for the love of the game.
What about the fact that most of these guys aren't making enough the pay the rent? The top-10 surfers are doing well, but the rest of them are just scratching to hold on for a few more years before securing a day job. This ain't golf where even the dude in last place is banking more cash than a college professor. Don't get me wrong. A pro surfer has no reason to whine. I mean really, the pro tour is essentially a travelling Elks Lodge that jets in and out of some the coolest locales on the planet. But I think it's important that pro surfers be viewed among all our great athletes. What are baseball players doing that makes them more worth watching? They never hold a baseball game on the beach in Tahiti. How about a tennis match? No reef. No possibility of sharks or drowning.
The biggest problem is exposure and media access. I said it before. It's time for a super-insane-high-digit wave pool. Quicksilver and Billabong and the rest should all put up some billions to create a true arena that can create replicas of the greatest waves on the planet. Surround it with cameras and perfect lighting. Aim giant fans right into the barrel and invite ESPN and NBC in on the whole thing and run 24 hour back-to back contests with stadium seating, box seats, a giant scoreboard and video screen, and even a night club where a party and contest can run concurrently. But again, I have moved away from the subject. I must state again without reservation that pro surfing is awesome
Comments
Hi, while browsing through the web I ran into ur blog regarding ptergyium. I have had 1 removed twice on my lft eye. The first time it was done by an amateur & I recently had it removed once again on April 09 but my scar is really red & all that corner is red. frankly I think it’s coming back w/ a vengeance. I am on lotemax 3x day and lubricating drops like krazy. What do u think? Help, I’m desperate!
I STATED IN AN EARLY POST..WHO GIVEA A#%%@ ABOUT PRO SURFING? RESPONSE BACK DETAILED THE ATHELTICISMN ENVLOVED IN SAID SPORT, EVEN COMPARING PRO SURFING TO FOOTBALL AND BASEBALL..OK THIS IS JUST MY TAKE..IF I WANT TO WATCH “JAW DROPING EXTREME SPORTS ” I WILL WATCH BMX ..GUYS LIKE DAVE MIRA , ON THE DEW TOUR OR VERT SKATING..NOT PRO SURFING…THE US OPEN AT HUNTINGTON , COME ON WHO CARES..BIG WALL ROCK CLIMBING ..GUYS FREE CLIMB ”el cap” you fall you die..doesnt mean its a good sport to watch or get wraped up in..THE VIKING STEALER GAME THIS WEEKEND WAS SOMETING I COULD GET WRAPED UP IN.. I DONT CARE WHAT KELLY DOES OR PARKO….PRO SURFING IS GOOD FOR PRO SURFERS THERE FRIENDS AND FAMILY AND THE SPONSORS AND THE MAGAZINES THAT MARKET THAT CRAP….WATCHING THE GUYS GO DOWN THE LINE SNAPING TURNS THAT ALL LOOK THE SAME AND GETTING JUDGED..ITS LAME BRO!! THERE WAS A TIME WHEN PRO SURFING WAS NOT COOL., ITS NEVER BEEN COOL TO ME, IT CAN ALSO BE SAID THAT SOME OF THE TOP 44 ARE NOT THE WORLDS BEST, SOME OF THE BEST SHUN THE WCT…SURFING IS NOT ABOUT COMPETEING, AT LEAST TO ME.. ITS ABOUT NATURE, BEING IN TUNE, ITS SOMETHING SPECIAL, BIG WAVES, GLASS, OUT WITH YOUR FREINDS OR DOIN A SOLO DAWN PATROL…THE ONLY HOPE WOULD BE TO HAVE SURFING AN OLYMPIC EVENT WHERE NATIONAL PRIDE WOULD BE ON THE LINE..OTHERS WISE WHO REALLY CARES WHAT KELLY DOES?? I DONT
Bruce,
No doubt you have a point, but I have a different perspective as a former competitor and pro judge.I have seen what some of these pros do in person and in some heavy conditions is nothing short of amazing. I love the natural aspect of surfing and mostly seek out spots I can surf just with my friends, but I enjoy following the tour and seeing who’s been ripping. Of course, it’s all drama and theatrics, but who cares. I get it that I became ajudge just to stay involved in the sport and make some $$$, so yeah it is self-perpetuation. Surfing with Ronnie Burns at Pipe or watching Laird get towed in at Backyards the first time or judging Bruce Irons in his first contest at the HPAC Pipe are all moments I relish, but that’s not why I started surfing or why I surf today…okay, I’m not sure if I’m proving my point or yours. Anyway, I love all aspects of surfing and I think your original post plus some work I was doing concerning early surf contest history were the sparks for this blog.
I TRIED TO HAVE AN OPEN MIND, EVEN WENT ON SURFLINE TO SEE WHAT WAS HAPPENING, I GUESS FANNING WON PORTUGAL, OK , SO..I EVEN WATCHED SOME SURFLINE VIDEOS OF PARKO COMPETING, ”yawn”… IT REALLY DID NOTHING FOR ME. THAN I WATCHED THE XXXL BILLABONG CONTEST WHERE GUYS ARE COMPETING FOR 130,000 USD , THOSE VIDEO CLIPS WERE DOPE!! THAT WAS EXCITING!!..NUF SAID ALOHA
would rather watch girls surf longboards at a good uncrowded spot than watch any pro-stitutes surf pipe.Pro surfing brings bad behavior.I think all pro sports are stupid.Would rather go to local high school and watch than pay to go see overpaid adults misbehaving.Its been all down hill since we got sucked into the Aussie surfing model of what surfing should be.Almost everytime ive surfed with pros they go out of turn and back paddle and when you call them on it they whine…Onlly exception ive seen is Kelly.
Jay… I was going to wax out something poetic in response to this blog but nothing can be said. You really summed up the sport perfectly.