About Surfing / Bodyboarding

Alaia Boards: homage to tradition or finless fad?

2009-12-16T23:00:25Z

In recent years, the Alaia surfboard has gotten tons of press from the big dudes in the surf media. Rob Machado has been plugging away on these little finless wooden doors for "impromtu" photo shots and videos showing guys spinning and twirling along tiny peelers are standard fodder for writers and photogs on a weekly basis; however, not all press has been positive. Some are calling foul on Alaia surfboards, calling them nothing more than a finless fad and another attempt to make money off a niche market like the stand-up paddle movement of late. Check Post Surf for a sardonic (yet satisfying) rant on the Alaia trend. Whether you agree with Lewis Samuels or not, it's still pretty funny (with reference to Kurt Vonnegot, no less).

For me, surfing is ALL good. Finless, asymmetrical, retro, paddle-boards made of wood? Who cares? It's just another way to ride waves. Bodyboarders and longboarders...Bodysurfers and knee boarders. They're all stoked. Alaia boards actually look to have a steep learning curve and would challenge even the most skilled surfer. Who cares what they look like surfing. Is surfing about looks? Riding boards that challenge you and surfing sans leash and pushing yourself in difficult waves are all ways to become a better surfer. It's clich� to say that a truly good surfer can ride a barn door. Well here's the chance.

The Alaia board is essentially a thin, finless, wooden surfboard with no rocker. All reports are that they are super fast, but video shows that they are difficult to handle. I plan to get a hold of one soon and give it a go.

Alaia Boards: homage to tradition or finless fad? originally appeared on About.com Surfing / Bodyboarding on Wednesday, December 16th, 2009 at 23:00:25.

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Surfboard Shaping: dead or re-born?

2009-12-08T09:10:01Z

Surfboards are a work of art. No argument there. Energized by muse. Infused with individuality, hand shaped surfboards will forever drive innovation in form and function. From the early Hawaiian Olo boards to Tom Blake's hollow logs, George Greenough's kneeboards, Greg Knoll's big wave guns, Simon Anderson, Glenn Winton, Dick Brewer, Al Merrick, the list continues...

Some shapers were historically important, innovating technology or technique while others, fortunate to be shapers-of-the-moment propelled by the era's hottest riders, effectively garnered publicity and exposure. But who's to say those boards are any better than the multitudes? When you get down to the grit, a great surfer will rip on even a mediocre board shape. You know the old saying, "He can ride a barn door." It's true. Dora, Young, Rabbit, Curren, Occy, Slater would have ripped regardless of which shapers they rode. And those guys represent only an insignificant minutia of the world's great surfers. My point: surfers surf well globally on all types of boards.

Shapers in backyard sheds around the world are every day tweaking the status quo by degree, seeking to twist from the shoulders of past giants. But the common yelp among the fray concerns the pop-out surfboard, a duplicated (sometimes plastic) mold of an original shape. The complaint is that mass produced pop-outs are driving the backyard shapers out of business by flooding the market with low priced inferior surfboards.

Yeah, that's about right, but there are more surfers in the world than ever before, and they fall into two main categories: casual and intense. Casual surfers need cheap boards. They don't need custom high performance rockets pocked with nuance. The more intense surfer is looking for something that perfectly fits to his/her style or particular waves. So there will be markets for each. The backyard shaper will always exist because more intense wave riders will always want something more than a pop-out can give. And with the ever growing number of surfers in the world and the varying choices and tastes (as well as access afforded by the Internet), there should be a market share for everyone.

For this site, I review different boards monthly, sometimes weekly, and to be honest, pop-out computer shapes rip too. While mass-produced boards lack the satisfaction of dusting the foam off your freshly shaped stick and honestly score low on stored energy and flex, I have yet to run into a surfboard in the new era that inherently sucks in terms of performance and construction. With modern blanks essentially delivered with a shape already intact, most shapers simply scrape out the basic foil. Computers aid the more challenging specifications, so almost anyone can shape these days. Of course, there are regal craftsman, true artisans, who can demand high prices from pros and wealthy collectors, so they aren't complaining. While most call this the dark age for surfboard shaping, the argument could be made that this is the golden age where anything is possible, when technology and an "anything goes" mentality is driving surfboard design into an exciting new world, where only the most brilliant or insane ideas can separate the wolves from the sheep.

Surfboard Shaping: dead or re-born? originally appeared on About.com Surfing / Bodyboarding on Tuesday, December 8th, 2009 at 09:10:01.

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Finding God in Surfing?

2009-11-29T09:13:07Z

Here is a re-post below that has generated lots of feedback. It came to my mind as I watched Jaimal Yogis' video about his book Saltwater Buddha: a surfer's quest to find Zen on the sea. It made me think of the great stories that surfers experience in a life of riding waves and what motivates them. Is it a higher power, a noble cause, or a selfish pleasure? Maybe all of them...

This article is quite insane (in a good way). It falls into the surf philosophy, psychology, and spirituality realm. An adventurer journalist/surfer finds his spiritual compass after falling to chronic Lyme Disease. He speaks lucidly and convincingly on religious connections to surfing and how we get the benefits and lessons of the world's faith in the unknown by paddling out into the very real lineup. He hits on some cool issues. Let me know what you think in the comment link below. Is surfing a religious experience? Do we experience God in the ocean? Is it just a physical reaction to the physical world?

Finding God in Surfing? originally appeared on About.com Surfing / Bodyboarding on Sunday, November 29th, 2009 at 09:13:07.

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Hollywood Surf Movies: the pleasure and pain

2009-11-18T21:25:09Z

Ah...the Hollywood surf movie. Do you remember where you were when In God's Hands was released? Or can you recite any of Keanu's lines from Pointbreak? Probably not. But as you take a look at my list of some of the most memorable surf moments in modern celluloid, remember that this is really a tongue in cheek bit of fun with references to "modern" flicks. You wouldn't believe the grief I have taken for all the movies I left out. So to set the record straight, I am not referring to surf movies like say Barrels of Fun or Momentum or surfing masterpieces like The Endless Summer or Riding Giants. And yes, evidentally, I missed an era that some consider "modern" in which Gidget and Ride the Wild Surf were released. But I just needed a forum where I could say that North Shore: the movie rules! And there's nothing anybody can do to stop me. If you have a list yourself, go ahead and share it. We all want to hear.

Hollywood Surf Movies: the pleasure and pain originally appeared on About.com Surfing / Bodyboarding on Wednesday, November 18th, 2009 at 21:25:09.

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More Gifts for Surfers

2009-11-11T20:55:38Z

I just finshed reviewing some more surf gear, and with Christmas just around the point, you might need some gift giving ideas for the surfer in your life. In one corner, there's the Flyin' Fish from Degree 33 surfboards. If your surfing loved one is looking for a fast and fluid board to rip junky waves, the Flyin Fish might look nice wrapped up under the tree, especially for beginner and intermediate surfers. In the other corner, Loaded Skateboards put together an innovative longboard skateboard combination that effectively mimics the carving and muscle movement of surfing. The Dervish is perfect for cross-training and surf fitness when the waves are flat.

Surfers are often tough gift givees since surfboards and surf gear are insanely personal, and a non-surfer is lost when confronted with the nuanced intracies of surf gear and surf-related stuff. For your convenience, I am feverishly trying to review goods so you can feel confident about your purchases.

More Gifts for Surfers originally appeared on About.com Surfing / Bodyboarding on Wednesday, November 11th, 2009 at 20:55:38.

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Tis the Season; Hook up a Surfer

2009-11-02T14:14:11Z

With Turkey Day already planned, would-be gift givers and cheer mongers are searching for the hottest and most "perfect-est" gift for their wave riding loved ones. Anyone can go to the local Kook Mart and pick out some cookie cutter clone gear. However, loads of smaller and dare I say more interesting products are out there. Take a gander below:

Avoid the cold in a Radiator Wetsuit

Give the gift of reading with Surfing's Greatest Misadventures, The Story of Miki Dora, and the classic In Search of Captain Zero

How about a pair of Curve Lockdown Racks to keep your board secured for that winter session?

Or even more insane...buy your holiday honey a new surfboard. You will never feel so loved.

If you've never bought a board, here are some tips on How to Buy a Surfboard.

Tis the Season; Hook up a Surfer originally appeared on About.com Surfing / Bodyboarding on Monday, November 2nd, 2009 at 14:14:11.

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A Legend Passes and Surfer Mag Ressurection

2009-10-25T15:10:26Z

The latest blow to the surf world comes from the death of surfer/shaper Chris Hawk. Chris (along with his brothers Sam and Tom) was an early influence on surfing in Huntington Beach. With shaping experience gleaned from years spent surfing Hawaii and working with shaping legends like Dick Brewer, Chris became one of the hottest shapers on the West Coast in the 60's and 70's. His contributions to surf culture and surfboard design recently garnered him an invitation this year to the Surfers' Hall of Fame, but his induction ceremony was moved forward prior to the normal July event due to Hawk's terminal diagnosis with throat cancer. Chris will be remembered for his contributions to the sport, but his greatest achievement was creating a true surfing life. To build a life experience based on the pursuit of waves and funding said pursuit through a surf-related gig (shaping being the epitome of surf culture perpetuation) is the goal of every wave rider. It's a shame that Hawk's journey was cut short before its completion.

On a much lighter note, the latest edition of Surfer Magazine boasts guest editor Joel Tudor, which in and of itself is not exceptional, but instead, it's his collaboration with editor-in-chief Joel Patterson that is illuminating. Patterson has overseen a steady improvement in both content and delivery at the mag and even his intro to Tudor's foray into surf literature is honest and inspiring. Tudor and Patterson work together to craft a different look and tone (closer to John Severson's original concept), highlighting counter-culture icons and underground legends in a non-traditional layout. But this isn't something out of character for the mag of late. Looking through my collection of Surfer Mags from previous months, I have relished the in-depth profiles of "real" humans (not pro surf puff pieces) and probing articles on travel and the environment. While Transworld Surf serves its purpose as the purveyor of blips and blurbs and gross out comedy (and yes there is a place for that), Surfer has risen above the fray with some great (dare I say) journalism from surfing's inner realm. Keep it up Patterson.

A Legend Passes and Surfer Mag Ressurection originally appeared on About.com Surfing / Bodyboarding on Sunday, October 25th, 2009 at 15:10:26.

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An Ode to Pro Surfing

2009-10-18T13:24:02Z

I might as well give in. I have always maintained even as a competing surfer and contest judge that surf contests are lame... and the surfer who is having the most fun wins... and there is no way to impress a qualitative measurement on one wave or surfer over another. That said, I have to admit I love pro surfing. I love the webcasts and contests results and the magazine articles and rooting for my favorites. I love watching surfers with seemingly super-natural abilities shredding exotic waves with the weight of impending points and cash on their backs. Are these people better than us? Well, no, in the case that they are riddled with all the same issues, obsessions, frailties and anxieties that make us all human (although we never see these red flags in ads or magazine articles) but heck NO in the fact that these guys and gals can throw a tail waft or 360 stale-fish air or pull into a throttling barrel at will, on cue and in front of the whole surf world (what essentially is a losing gamble for most but often ends in victory for these guys). And if you have ever surfed Pipe of Sunset or Chopes, you know that pro surfers are earning their money, especially on those less than perfect wind-blown mornings when the sea has yet to calm, the swell is on the rise, and photogs and spectators are still sleeping. That's going for it for the love of the game.

What about the fact that most of these guys aren't making enough the pay the rent? The top-10 surfers are doing well, but the rest of them are just scratching to hold on for a few more years before securing a day job. This ain't golf where even the dude in last place is banking more cash than a college professor. Don't get me wrong. A pro surfer has no reason to whine. I mean really, the pro tour is essentially a travelling Elks Lodge that jets in and out of some the coolest locales on the planet. But I think it's important that pro surfers be viewed among all our great athletes. What are baseball players doing that makes them more worth watching? They never hold a baseball game on the beach in Tahiti. How about a tennis match? No reef. No possibility of sharks or drowning.

The biggest problem is exposure and media access. I said it before. It's time for a super-insane-high-digit wave pool. Quicksilver and Billabong and the rest should all put up some billions to create a true arena that can create replicas of the greatest waves on the planet. Surround it with cameras and perfect lighting. Aim giant fans right into the barrel and invite ESPN and NBC in on the whole thing and run 24 hour back-to back contests with stadium seating, box seats, a giant scoreboard and video screen, and even a night club where a party and contest can run concurrently. But again, I have moved away from the subject. I must state again without reservation that pro surfing is awesome

An Ode to Pro Surfing originally appeared on About.com Surfing / Bodyboarding on Sunday, October 18th, 2009 at 13:24:02.

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ASP Ups Cash; Spain Stays Small and No Rebel Tour

2009-10-10T17:29:57Z

Amidst the quiet of lake-like conditions, ASP officials and pro surfers took to the mic in Mundaka, Spain to announce that the ASP would remain the only game in town. If you didn't know, Kelly Slater and ESPN were proposing a breakaway pro tour that would court major sport industry sponsorship and gobs of media coverage to essentially pull a rug out from under the ASP's dominance. The buzz of this "Champions Tour" began ruffling feathers and piquing many a pro surfer's interest some months ago when Kelly Slater discussed the idea with several surfing heavies, the Irons Bros and Jamie Obrien to name a few, and convinced them that the current form of the ASP is obsolete and self-serving. But the board of directors announced today that they would lower the number of competing surfers from 45 to 32, up the prize money across the board, and shuffle some internal positions and power wielders. But is that the BIG CHANGE that was on the horizon? Is this all it takes to keep surfers from trying something new and freshening up the game a bit?

I say throw a monkey wrench into the whole machine. Build a pro-level wave pool for use at some contests and mix in a tow surf event as well. Tally team competition points. Build that Aussie-Seppo rivalry again and waving flags. Incorporate board building and design into the process. Require that a surfer shape his own board and ride it in certain events or have surfers compete in short and long board heats (and body surfing too) and add the points at the end. Make the tour more about being a master surfer rather than simply a performance artist in one genre. Surfing is about more than shredding a short board. Surfing is about crafting a life experience that puts riding waves firmly on the priority list and then ruling that experience on a daily basis. Just live and love what you do. Alright, maybe that might be tough to judge objectively.

ASP Ups Cash; Spain Stays Small and No Rebel Tour originally appeared on About.com Surfing / Bodyboarding on Saturday, October 10th, 2009 at 17:29:57.

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Shredification

2009-10-01T22:39:55Z

Mick Fanning blew through another contest down in France and thus asserted himself as the new man to beat with Parko's dominance waning and C.J., Slater and Bede battling for scraps. But that's pro blubber. The real deal is going down at your home break. The stoke building for an upcoming swell. Some dad pushing his kid into his first wave. A group of old friends floating in the lineup at sunset unsure of the future. Hours pass. A surfer sips hot coffee and glides into a sweet dawn patrol. The smell of freshly applied wax. The red burn of belly rash. The scorch of the sand on your soles. Wafting aromas of old wesuits. Deep duck-dives. Deep barrels. And deep satisfaction.

That is surfing.

There's surfing and then there's mind surfing. Ya know, when you're sitting on the beach watching a wave break innocently and you are imagine all horrifically wonderful things you'd like to do to it. Flying over sections and threading tubes on a metaphysical level. I remember sitting on the beach early in the morning before school with my good friend Josh, watching perfect knee high zippers and picturing ourselves as little G.I. Joneser-sized surfers sitting in the lineup. Each of us offered a narrative play-by-play of every wave that dribbled in. "I got this one. I'm paddling, hopping to my feet...off the bottom and WHACK off the lip fins out. Jump on to the roof and float the boat over the next section and free fall into the pit SHWACK under the lip snap." That's how it went. If there was some swell, we probably wouldn't make it to school that day, but some mind surfing would suffice.

Shredification originally appeared on About.com Surfing / Bodyboarding on Thursday, October 1st, 2009 at 22:39:55.

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