In mushy waves, you will have to use your back and knee strength to guide your board back down on to the face of the wave. Otherwise, you and your board will get stuck at the top, and you will be left standing while the your wave travels on. In juicier waves, however, you need only to keep your weight on the crucial midpoint of your board and your feet planted firmly,letting the wave's power do all the work. Be careful if you hit a lip on a powerful wave because you run the risk of being thrown far out into the flats. On a bigger wave, this could mean freefalling quite a large distance.
How to Hit the Lip: Looking Back
To review: Plan ahead and keep your eye on the vertical section you want to hit, generate as much speed as possible, use your back foot weight to pivot your board to a more vertical position, use your back and knees to guide your board back down into the wave. If everything goes as planned, you should find yourself now standing in the trough (bottom) of the wave getting ready for your next move.
