Now, Let’s Use the Tools!
How will this help us forecast? Take this information and apply it to the various (actually virtually endless) maps, forecast models, and reports on the Internet. None of these tools should be taken on face value since Mother Nature can change her mind at a moment’s notice. Therefore, be wary of any forecast beyond 46 hours. There is very little credence to be given to these visions into the future. However, you can use your new knowledge of waves and apply this to any weather scenario.
First go to which will give some very specific information on future swell activity. Pay special attention to the swell direction. Waves coming from the east and heading west are considered 90 degrees while waves coming from due south and heading north are termed 180 degrees . This will help you to choose the specific break that might be happening. Different swell directions bring new personalities to surf spots and can mean the difference between flat and bombing conditions at some locales. I find Wetsand to be very accurate and painfully simple.
Once you’ve established the possibility of an upcoming swell event, check out the [link url=http://facs.scripps.edu/surf/gblpac.html]Scripps website
Now, as the swell target date looms within 24 hours, check the buoys in your area. This will let you know what activity is happening at that moment. Swell/wave height and swell period is all you need to evaluate the current wave activity. Wave period is very important. For instance, if a buoy reads 5 at 13 seconds, this indicates a long, well-groomed ground swell at medium height while a reading of 10 feet at 8 seconds shows a large swell that is poorly organized with short, haphazard length.
Now, in order to establish wind and temperature, check out the "Latest Marine Forecast" (found above your specific buoy data) on the same page as the buoy readings. There, you can establish when the winds and tide will be optimal. Light, off-shore winds (blowing from the beach and toward the ocean) are generally thought to be the best since they produce smooth, hollow waves.
These sites are what I use to accurately and confidently forecast the surf and choose what days I will call in sick or get up early. Conversely, these tools also help me plan around flat spells or adverse wind conditions, so I can get my non-surfing activities done. I realize these are not the only places to go for wave-forecasting information. There are many more detailed maps and reports out there, but I am in the business of making things easy for you. So give this a try. Have fun and go get some waves.
