That’s why when the planets align offering forth the absolute pleasure of a multiple session day, you not only dig it…you wallow in it. You give it all you got like your life depended on it. You paddle out early and don’t come in until your skin is toast and your eyes are fried and your arms are jelly. That’s when the true magnitude of the multiple session day can be accepted. You are not done. This moment, this 11 AM time of reckoning would normally be your curtain call to head to class or work or home to mow the lawn. Not this time. Today is your day. Today, you surf.
After that initial session, it’s time to grind and talk meaningless drivel with your friends over greasy eggs and bacon. Good waves and wipeouts bounce along the conversation as you recharge for the next go out. Now come the second sesh and more waves and the satisfaction of being warmed up and relaxed and well fed. Be careful not to check your cell phone because the real world might find you and draw you in. This is precious time you cannot relinquish. Even if the waves are crappy, keep surfing. Use your time wisely. As go out numero dos concludes, you’re tired and contemplating heading home as the wind comes onshore, but don’t do it. It’s your chance at a third session, another beautiful few hours of waves and sun. Plus, you know the evening glass-off will be epic.
As you drive home under the cool of the setting sun, back aching and mind reeling from all those good rides, you know life awaits. Real life is building up like a huge swell as you inch closer to home, closer to school, closer to work; but you are now better equipped to deal with it. Someone once said that after a good surf session, I am a better person, so it is in the world’s best interest that I go surfing (Or something like that. I may have added some words), but it’s true. That reality wave is just that, another wave to be ridden and now that you have surfed yourself into a relaxed state of oblivion, real life will be just fine. You can take care of business without the specter of missed waves perched above your brain, pulling you away. You can sit in class and rest assured that you had way more fun than anyone in the class (including the teacher). Now if you’re teacher, you can laughingly begin class with that child-like energy that only a day of surfing can provide. This is what it feels to be surfed-out – all that energy expelled into space. This is what it feels like to be a surfer.
And thus…this is why surfers dig multiple sessions.